Granite Peak: Climbing Montana’s Highest Mountain

The early morning sky turned soft shades of pink and orange, spilling light across the valley and reflecting off distant alpine lakes as we carefully picked our way across unstable rock toward the summit of Granite Peak.

Above us, the weather looked deceptively calm—clear skies, gentle warmth—but a storm system was already closing in, expected to arrive within a day and bury the mountain under more than a foot of fresh snow. That shift in forecast compressed our plan from three days to just two. At that point, we were about 12 miles into the route, and the peak stood clearly ahead in the distance.

Twelve hours earlier, our small three-person team sat at basecamp eating simple food and watching rescue helicopters circle the mountain in high winds. The conditions were already serious even at lower elevation. Gusts were so strong we reinforced our tent by stacking rocks in every corner to keep it from being ripped loose and dragged across the tundra. On the upside, the harsh weather kept away the infamous local “pee goats,” animals known for chewing on tents after being drawn to the salt from human urine.

Eventually, the helicopter noise faded and night settled in. Sleep came in fragments as the tent shook repeatedly in the wind. After a long approach hike the day before, we woke before dawn, layered up, and started moving around 4 a.m. Headlamps lit the trail as we headed toward the dark silhouette of the mountain.

As morning broke, helicopters returned overhead, though we had no way of knowing what was happening in the backcountry. We were climbing from the southwest via the Southwest Couloir route. This line is increasingly popular because it avoids the exposed Class 4 ridge on the north side, instead following a Class 3 approach that still carries significant rockfall exposure.

Conditions improved as the sun rose. Winds eased and the rock warmed beneath our feet while we followed fixed ropes through sections of scrambling terrain. It was a busy weekend on the mountain, with several parties spread across the route. Around 8:25 a.m. on September 6, 2020, we topped out on Granite Peak—Montana’s highest point.

From the summit, we could see search-and-rescue operations unfolding below. Pilot Mark Duffy completed multiple short-haul rescues that morning under difficult conditions, even on the day of his son’s funeral—a powerful act of courage that saved lives on the mountain.

The Approach

Granite Peak sits deep within the Beartooth Range and rises to 12,808 feet, making it the tallest mountain in Montana. For comparison, the highest point in Glacier National Park is over 2,000 feet lower.

There are several ways to reach the peak. We chose the Southwest Couloir route and camped near Skytop Lakes to shorten summit day. Other climbers often use Aero Lakes, but Skytop positioned us closer to the climb itself.

Reaching Skytop requires a roughly 9-mile approach hike starting near coordinates 45.0505418, -109.9101180. Vehicles without 4WD usually park slightly lower along the road and add a short extra walk.

The route begins past an old mining cabin and follows a trail toward Lady of the Lake. This section is known for its frustrating elevation changes—you gain height only to lose it again. By the time you reach Lady of the Lake, you often feel like you’ve backtracked vertically.

Beyond this point, navigation becomes more important. Because the Southwest Couloir approach is relatively new, trail markings are inconsistent. About a mile past the lake, the path splits near a grassy stretch along the creek. The left fork leads toward Aero Lakes, while the right continues toward Skytop Lakes. Staying right is essential, and after a second creek crossing the trail becomes faint before eventually disappearing if you miss the correct line.

Farther along, Lone Elk Lake provides a good resting point. However, beyond it the route becomes confusing. We mistakenly followed a set of cairns that led us off course around Rough Lake, adding extra distance to an already long day.

To stay on track after Lone Elk Lake, follow the shoreline and cross Skytop Creek at the northern end. Continue along Rough Lake’s southeastern edge, then cross again near its upper section. A rocky gully with cairns leads upward toward a waterfall and eventually opens onto the Skytop Lakes basin. Campsites can be found along flat areas near the western shoreline.

A topographic map app with offline capability is strongly recommended for this section.

Summit Day

Most climbers begin between 4:00 and 5:30 a.m. to avoid afternoon weather changes. From basecamp, cairns and boulder fields guide the way toward a feature known as “The Tongue,” a recognizable gully on the southwest face.

Even in summer, snow can linger here, though by late season it often melts out enough for dry ascent. Unlike the alternative “Froze to Death Plateau” route, the Southwest Couloir typically does not require crampons or ropes in stable conditions.

Above The Tongue, the route continues over loose scree before reaching a small but important cairn that marks the start of the ramp gully. This is also where trekking poles are usually stowed, as the terrain becomes too technical for them.

The ramp section is the core of the climb. Fixed ropes assist progress through steep Class 3 terrain, but rockfall is a real hazard, making helmets essential. Careful movement is necessary, especially when other parties are above or below you.

While some climbers consider this section dangerous due to falling rock, others find it manageable with proper caution and timing. For those uncomfortable with exposed scrambling, it may still feel intimidating but is generally considered the more accessible option compared to the north ridge.

From the top of the ramp, several scrambling paths lead onto the ridge. Staying slightly right offers the easiest passage. Once above the gully, only a short climb remains—about 200 vertical feet—before turning left and following the ridge directly to the summit.